Inland Waters
Explore our Inland Waters - their history and wildlife. From
Britain's largest nationally protected wetland The Broads, to the
sweeping vistas of The Fens, and the industrial heritage
of Hertfordshire's canals
The Broads (Norfolk/Suffolk)
A unique and fascinating place, so timeless
and natural that its hard to believe that this
landscape is man made.
The story of the area begins in the Middle Ages.
Between the 12-14th C. peat digging (or turf
cutting) was a major industry - carried out
on a massive scale with almost every settlement
in the area digging its own pit for extracting peat as
its principal source of fuel. These diggings were
abandoned by the 14th C. and gradually filled
with water creating shallow lakes or ‘broads'.
Farming became the main industry - and many
areas were artificially drained to provide grazing
marshes for livestock, using a network of dykes,
embankments, windmills and wind-pumps.
Marshmen reaped the natural riches of the
landscape - from cutting reed/sedge for thatch,
to catching fish and wildfowl to sell at local
markets. Meanwhile villages began to establish
themselves beside the new waterways, each with
their own staithe (quay) for mooring boats.
Boats were essential for trading cargo, and large single-sailed craft called
wherries were specially built to navigate the shallow waters. For over
200 years they worked in the area, supplying rural villages, as well as
carrying imports and exports to and from the coast. Later they became the
first pleasure craft for holidays. With the coming of the railways in the 1870's,
The Broads were discovered by the holidaymaker - and the area became a
destination for those of the upper/upper-middle class seeking an 'adventure'
holiday. Later in the 20th C. - with the establishment of boat hire businesses,
the area was opened up to the mass tourist market.
The Broads (continued)
Today The Broads are Britain's largest nationally
protected wetland, with a similar status to a national
park. There are 43 broads, connected by the area's
six rivers - making up to 125 miles (200 kilometres)
of lock-free navigable waterways.
The best way to see them is by boat, and there are
many places where you can enjoy a regular
excursion, or hire craft for day trips, short breaks or
longer holidays. There are even Canadian-style
canoes available. For the angler, The Broads offer
some of the finest coarse fishing in the country.
Of course - the waterways and their surrounding
fens, woodland, marshes and estuary habitats are
a haven for some of Britain's rarest flora and fauna,
such as the fen orchid, the Norfolk hawker dragonfly,
water lilies and the swallowtail - the country's largest
butterfly. A variety of birds can be seen - teal, wigeon,
shelduck, bewick swans and the marsh harrier. In
the spring, listen out for the 'booming' bittern.
Places to Visit
Barton Broad - the second largest, explore aboard the solar-powered 'RA'.
Cockshoot Broad - boardwalk with water lily beds. Carlton Marshes - grazing
marsh, fens and peat pools. Horning - Broads holiday village. How Hill - take a
trip through the marshes aboard the ‘Electric Eel'. NWT Hickling Broad - the biggest
expanse of open water in The Broads. A good place to seek out Britain's largest
butterfly - the swallowtail. Oulton Broad - one of the finest stretches of inland water
in England. NWT Ranworth Broad - floating wildlife centre. Climb the nearby church
tower for spectacular views. RSPB Berney Marshes and Breydon Water - tens of
thousands of wildfowl make this their winter home. RSPB Strumpshaw Fen - trails
through reedbeds, woodlands and orchid-rich meadows. Wroxham and
Hoveton - the 'capital of The Broads', with various boat excursions.
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Lee Valley Regional Park (Essex/Hertfordshire)
A mosaic of landscapes and habitats - with lakes and watercourses, nature
reserves, meadows, farm and woodland, inlaid with centres for leisure, sports,
heritage and entertainment.
The park covers some 10,000 acres, and stretches 26 miles (42 kilometres) on
both sides of the River Lea, from the more rural areas of Hertfordshire and
Essex, down into the heart of London's East End.
This was once a great industrial area - barges transported goods (coal, timber and
malt) along the important 'Lee and Stort Navigation', whilst mills produced flour,
gunpowder and paper. In the 1930's, the Lea Valley was home to a vast market
gardening industry (fruit, vegetables and flowers) - with the world's largest
concentration of glasshouses located here. This was due to the quality of soil, an
excellent water supply and the ease of access to the markets of London. The
extraction of gravel also became a major activity.
In 1967, the Lee Valley Regional Park Authority was established to regenerate the
area for recreation and wildlife. Today there are opportunities for cycling, walking,
horseriding, angling and boating. It is particularly noted as a birdwatchers
paradise - in recent years, around 200 different species have been recorded. The
wetlands are one of the major inland wintering areas for birds in Britain.
Places to Visit
Gunpowder Park - country park, with an emphasis on wildlife and the arts. Lee
Valley Boat Centre - boats for hire and canal trips. Lee Valley Park Farms - two
farms to visit (traditional-style and modern dairy/arable). River Lee Country
Park - old gravel pits, transformed into an area of lakes, waterways and green open
spaces. Cycling, walking, birdwatching and dragonfly sanctuary. Royal Gunpowder
Mills - story of explosives industry and rich wildlife areas. RSPB Rye
Meads - range of wetland habitats, look out for electric-blue kingfishers. Rye House
Gatehouse - 15th C. moated building, scene of the 'Rye House Plot'.
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Chelmer and Blackwater Navigation (Essex)
14 mile (23 kilometre) long canal running from Chelmsford - the county town of
Essex, to the Blackwater Estuary at Heybridge Basin (nr. Maldon). It's history dates
back to 1793, when an Act of Parliament was passed to allow the development of a
navigable waterway using the existing River Chelmer.
The great canal architect, John Rennie, was appointed as chief engineer - and his
legacy can be seen today in the bridges and locks. Opened in 1797, it transported
goods (coal, timber and grain) from seagoing ships via barge to the growing town
of Chelmsford. It was highly profitable, until the arrival of the railways in the 19th C.
Today this peaceful oasis is good for anglers, boating and walkers.
Places to Visit
Chelmsford - Springfield Basin was once the bustling canal terminus, today home
to a marina. Sandford Mill - here you might spot ‘Susan', the only surviving
timber-built (1953) Chelmer barge. Paper Mill Lock - boating centre with working
lock, tea room, boat hire and river trips. Heybridge Basin (nr. Maldon) - where
the goods were transferred from seagoing ships onto the barges. Waterside pub.
The Broads are Britain's largest
nationally protected wetland, with a
similar status to a national park. There
are 43 broads, connected by the area's
six rivers - making up to 125 miles
of lock-free navigable waterways
The Fens (Cambridgeshire/Norfolk)
Stretching out from The Wash, The Fens are noted
for their wide, open landscapes with dramatic skies
and sweeping vistas that stretch for miles.
The countryside we see today is the result of man's
desire to tame and control this former wet
wilderness - and in turn, create some of the most
fertile land in Britain (the black peat soils
growing flowers, fruit and vegetables).
10,000 years ago the area was dominated by
forest - East Anglia was joined to Europe by dry land,
and her rivers were the tributaries of the Rhine. But
as the Ice Age came to an end, the sea rose, and
the forest was flooded. Millions of trees died and fell
into the new wet, swampy conditions, gradually
creating the rich peat soils which are cultivated
today. The first people to inhabit this area were a
strongly independent folk who lived in isolated
communities, clinging to the few islands which
rose above the marshes. Their livelihood were the
eels, fish and wildfowl of the area.
The Romans were the first to try their hand at drainage - constructing sea banks
and dykes. Then between Domesday and the 13th C. a gradual reclamation
took place - as the local wealthy and land-hungry monastries built flood banks so
they could charge for grazing and fishing rights.
The Dark Ages saw a halt to reclaimation, however by the early 17th C. a group of
speculators (under the guidance of the 4th Earl of Bedford) started work on the
systematic drainage of the Fens. By funding this work, they were later rewarded
with large grants of the resulting farmland. Experienced engineers were
commissioned, such as Dutchman Cornelius Vermuyden. His greatest scheme
was the construction of the Old and New Bedford Rivers, which stretch for 21 miles
(34 kilometres) between Earith and Denver. In between is a huge inland flood
reservoir (the Ouse Washes), which could be used in times of need.
Unexpectedly as the drainage continued, the land began to shrink at an alarming
rate as the soil dried out. As the level of the land dropped, water could no longer
drain into the rivers, which were now higher than the fields. Wind pumps were
introduced to take the water off the land and into the rivers - later replaced by
steam, diesel and today electric pumps. Today the Fens have a sophisticated
network of rivers and artificial drains, controlled by sluice gates, locks and
pumps. They help to protect the land from the ever present threat of rain and tide.
The Fens (continued)
The Fens are one of the country's most important
wildlife areas - cattle graze upon the lush meadows,
and it is home to an enormous array of resident and
visiting birds, insects and rare flora species. Enjoy
the area by hiring a boat for a day or longer - both
cruisers and traditional narrow-boats are available.
Places to Visit
Holme Fen - lowest point in Britain. Cast-iron column
shows shrinkage of land. Prickwillow Drainage
Engine Museum - see how the former watery Fens
were reclaimed. RSPB Ouse Washes - long, straight
stretch of wetland between artificial channels. Home
to thousands of wintering ducks and swans. Wicken
Fen - see how the landscape looked before extensive
drainage by man. This internationally renowned
wetland site is home to more than 7,000 species.
Woodwalton Fen - birds, flowers, dragonflies
and around 900 moth species. WWT Welney
Wetland Centre - important nature reserve,
noted for its famous floodlit wild swan feeds.
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Grand Union Canal (Bedfordshire/Hertfordshire)
This famous canal was formed in the years 1929-1932 - by the amalgamation of
many independent waterways. The aim was to provide a direct link between
London and Birmingham. One of the last canals to be opened in Britain - it became
the most prosperous, carrying everything from coal, sand and gravel, to pottery, raw
material for paper production and even bulk salt. Running for 137 miles
(220 kilometres) with 166 locks, the canal passes through the counties of
Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire - and today offers leisure activities, such as
boating, cycling and walking.
Places to Visit
Ashridge Estate - monument (built 1832) commemorating the 3rd Duke of
Bridgewater, a pioneer of 19th C. canal-building. Batchworth Lock Canal
Centre - displays and former working narrow boat 'Roger'. Linslade - canalside
village with colourful narrow boats. Marsworth - pretty village, a good place to
watch the boats passing through the locks. Stocker's Lake - water-filled
gravel pit with islands. Largest heronry in county. Tring Reservoirs - supplies
water for the canal when lost through the operation of locks. Haven for wildlife.
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Rivers and Reservoirs
Rivers
The East of England has many beautiful rivers to discover. Relax beside
their waters with a picnic, feed the ducks, or just watch the world-go-by.
Go boating on the Ouse - from Bedford to The Wash, or take a chauffeured
punt along the Cam amongst the dreamy spires of Cambridge. Essex
and Suffolk have wide river estuaries to explore, great for wildlife watching
and sailing - try the Blackwater, Colne, Stour, Orwell, Deben or Blyth. Whilst
in Norfolk, take a boat trip through the historic city of Norwich on the Wensum.
Reservoirs
Abberton - covers 1,200 acres. Internationally important as a safe haven for wild
duck and swans. Alton Water - biggest area of inland water in Suffolk.
Grafham - Britain's third largest man-made reservoir. Hanningfield - built in
1950's, with great trout fishing. Tring - supplies water for the Grand Union Canal
when lost through the operation of locks.
